2011 STREET STOCK RULES

2011 STREET STOCK RULES

MORE INFO, DON LONG 513-947-1028

GENERAL RULES: Any sedan or wagon 80, newer (call on your 77, 78,79 square body G.M. models, no checker cabs) You must have helmet, seatbelt, eye protection & long pants worn at all times. I may reject any or all entries for any reason. Your car may be cut/drilled or reinspected at any time. If it does not say you can do it don’t it’s a stock derby. All rules left out will be gone over the day of the event. Clarification on calls regarding car building will be made the day of the event. All glass, plastic, bumper covers, trailer hitches, braces & interior must be removed before arriving at the event. No refunds.

BUMPERS: Any year bumper. Welding all of the seams on the front bumper O.K. 80 or newer front bumpers may add gussets in the inside of it. Back bumper must stay stock. Stock shock tubes only they may be welded to the frame but must stay 100% stock for that car no home made or round tubing. Bumpers may be welded solid to the stock shock tubes or directly to the frame. Plus one 2”x4” strap from bumper to frame per-side to help keep it from falling off.

CORE-SUPPORT: No welding on the core-support. No angle in front of radiator. No doubling the front 2 body mount holes. You can use 1” all-thread for the front two mounts ran up thru the support and may be used for 2 of the 4 hood bolts. Only welding on the core-support is the top of the support where it bolts to the fenders. (one pass only ? Call) 4” max spacer ok.

HOODS & DECK LIDS: 100% stock hoods & deck lids (Ford to Ford, Chevy to Chevy) with a hole cut in the center of each (12”x12”) No folding, bolting, or welding hoods or deck lids together. You do not have to use a trunk lid. 4 hood bolts max or 6 spots of wire for hoods. 5 inch max on all washers & angles.

BODY-BOLTS/MOUNTS: Front 2 mounts may have 1” all-thread and a 4” tall/ 2”x2” max metal spacer between the frame and core support. You also may change the body bolts. The bolt size may not be no bigger than 1/2 inch bolts and a 5 inch max size on all washers inside the floor of the car. Body mounts must stay a soled rubber. Using a hockey puck or the factory rubber mount with at least 1 inch of metal sleeve. Remember there must be a 1 inch space between the fram and body.

FRAME: No seam welding, hump plates or pulling the front of the car down. You may fix one bad rust spot and use the older stock Ford HD gussets. Frame swaps 80 newer Ford to Ford or Chevy to Chevy call there are restrictions. All pre-run street stock cars may have two 4”x4”x1/4” fix-a-plates on bent spots on the frame. They must show damage or will be cut off.

BODY: No major creasing of the body before inspection. We must be able to see in the rear quarters and trunks. Back doors, trunk lids & tail gates may be wired, bolted or welded 6” on 6” off with 3” wide strips the deck lid & speaker tray must stay in the stock position (NO DECK LIDS DOWN INSIDE OF CAR) with a 12”x12” hole cut in the center of trunk. The front two doors may be welded solid. You do not have to weld nothing on the car but you must at least wire doors & hood.

ENGINE: Any type of engine using stock factory mounts on the cradle. You may use a front motor plate/engine cradle to replace hard to find brackets & engine mounts. If you are using after market engine brackets/mounts you do not get chains from the motor to the frame. You may use 1 chain per side (3/8 max) only on engines with no after market products. No distributor protectors or pulley protectors may be used in the street stock class.

REAR-END: Any factory 5 lug rear-end. With a tight fitting protector to protect the rear-end, no all-thread or piping inside the coils 3/8 chain only bolted/welded in on the coil spring pockets of the frame. You must run factory type traditional shocks all cars must bounce. No short stocks. You may change out the coils or add spring risers for height. Cars with Leaf springs must be/stay 100% stock for that car. The 4 factory trailing arms must be used but may be strengthened, shorten or lengthen.

CAGE: 4 point cage (4”x4” max tubing) Front bar must be 5” from the center of the fire wall and can not contour the body. Back bar can be no further back where kick panel meets the bench seat and at least 5 inches off the floor. Side bars must stay in the inside of the car only. If running a Halo bar it must come off the back bar only and go straight up and across the roof bolted in 3 spots. If running a Tank protector it must come off the back bar and be no wider than 2’. It may rest against the back seat rest sheet metal only it can not be bolted or welded to the frame or body in any way. No kickers any where. You do not have to build a cage or gas tank protector to enter.

GAS TANK/BATT. BOX, TIRES MISC: 10 gallon max tanks, no wider than 2’x2’ boat type tanks ok. 2 batt. max. Both tank and batt. box can not strengthen the car. No oil coolers or boxes. trans coolers ok but must be air cooled. Any car, truck, or forklift tire. No ATV ro studded tires no wheel weights or value steam protectors. Upper A-arms may be changed. No welding of the A-arms cars must bounce. No ball joint protectors. Factory tie rods must be used but may be strengthened with angle. Front sway bar and all components must be 100% stock or will be taken off. After market steering columns & drive shafts OK. No low riders must sit level with no cars sitting lower than 17” in rear measuring from the lowest point with no tricks and 22” tall from the bottom of front bumper. Any thing left out of the rules consider it being stock.

2011 RIDING LAWN MOWERS
1. Mower must be factory type lawn or garden mower. No home made frames, rear engine or shaft driven mowers allowed.
2. Engine must be a factory available lawn mower engine (Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Tecumseh, etc.) any modifications O.K.
3. All frame modifications and reinforcing the under carriage is permitted. Mower decks must be removed.
4. Hoods and engine bay reinforcing is permitted, but must be contained under the hood and must maintain factory body lines.
5. Mowers must have brakes, forward and reverse gears. All gas tanks must be secured and have a gas cap.
6. Leg guards are mandatory. They must be bolted or welded from rear fenders to the front of the foot rest or frame.
7. Transaxles must be factory available mower transaxles. You may weld the spider gears.
8. Re-gearing and changing pulleys to increase speed is permitted. Only belt driven mowers can compete.
9. All mowers must use lawn mower type wheels and tires. (no chains or dual wheels)
10. Batteries must be removed from mower and can only be used to jump start before the heat. Pull starts can be used but drivers will not be permitted to restart engine. Driver will be out of the race if mower dies, belt comes off, or gets rolled-over.
11. H-beam or some form of rear bumper is permitted, but can not extend more than 4” out and must be kept between the rear tires.
12. No front bumpers you hit with the front of the grill. The front part of the frame can be welded but must be finished flat (? call)
13. You may have a spark plug protector and run a header out the hood straight up.
14. No sharp or protuding edges anywhere on the mower. All corner, all-thread, and welds must be finished off smooth.
15. All mowers must have a number on each side of it or on your helmet.
16. Ground rules for the event will be gone over in the drivers meeting. Do not miss this meeting or you may not get to run.
17. All mowers will start the show and be driver inspected. If a problem occurs please get an official to have them make changes.